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See Previous 2004 Voyage Logs

Vanuatu Discovery 2004,
Santo to Pt Vila

 

 

 

 

 

V206 - 27 Sept to 7 October 2004: Noreen's tale of the second voyage with Tiger Timbs and the Eye of the Wind reunion crowd through the central islands of Vanuatu.

"With yet another trip commencing, we find ourselves in the company of another group of “Eye of the Winders”. There is a great vibe with this group; many are sailors and willing to help out in any way! A big HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO THE MATE, Barry celebrates his birthday on joining day…how appropriate!
We should definitely present Tiger with an award for best dishwasher, I think he has maintained a running role for washing dishes at nearly every meal, Thanks heaps!
We are on a southerly course from Santo to Vila this trip, our joining day came and went and although the weather was a bit gray and overcast there was a buzz throughout the ship.

By the 29th we anchored in Asanvari Bay, at the south west point of the island of Maewo. Snorkeling gear was handed out and boats were loaded for trips to the reef. Chief Nelson greeted us and we were assured that his son, Nixon, would be preparing a fine evening meal and that the custom dancers were ready to put on a great show! The women’s handicraft shop was open, it was hard not to pick out a woven bag, they were hung from the rafters at a convenient eye level, and the ladies were keen to trade for t-shirts or sarongs! Stacey is named, the bag lady because of the number of bags she has traded her clothing for, wonder what she’ll return to Auckland in?!

12-4 do deck wash.

all ashore on small sandbar.

Asanvari custom dance2.

Asanvari custom dance4.
The custom dancers once again put on an outstanding show, the feathered head dresses and beating of the drum provided us with many great photo opportunities, but the children’s dance was the real hit. After showing how the “hoping” was done we joined in jumping over and dodging bamboo sticks that were being rapped in the beat of the music, it was a challenge that looked much easier than it was!
In the Asanvari Yacht Club there were a couple of men sitting on the ground grounding kava root by hand, they continued to do so throughout the evening. What a potent brew they concocted, a few of us felt the effects and were all to eager to eat the beautifully presented meal!

Asanvari custom dance6.

children hanging up flowers on epi.

childrens dance at Asanvari with nick.

childrens dance at Asanvari1.

childrens dance at asanvari3.

crew photo santo-vila.

driving the boat back from church.

grinding kava.
With plenty of pitching and rolling we made our way south for Malekula, we sailed for a good twelve hours before having to turn the Main Engine on to continue our journey to the south of the island. By 0318hrs the anchor was down and the ship was at rest. After breakfast Jim headed ashore to organize the days events, we were told that the village we were anchored off had just done a custom dance and so to help the other villages would we mind moving down the bay to a village that would be more than happy to put on a presentation. We happliy obliged and boats ashore gave crew the opportunity to wander in the village, play volleyball (of course James and I were involved) swim with the local kids or throw the Frisbee around. Voyage crew were lead down the beach were they took in more of Vanuatu’s traditional dance.
The following morning we undertook a 24-mile journey to the Maskelyne Islands. Carefully dodging sandbars and reefs Jim guided the ship into the bay where three locals greeted us on a very large outrigger canoe, with a mast and sail. While I showed the men around the ship, Nick took the opportunity to hop into the canoe and examine the rigging; with promises to return in the morning, the men agreed to dive for crayfish overnight and supply the ship with as many as they could.
Meanwhile, Jim, Liam, David and Bob took the dinghy ashore to collect firewood to bring with us to a nearby island; we would anchor of Awei Island for a “traditional Australian Feast”(we are careful not to use the “B”word {short for BBQ} because we may jinx ourselves and get rain!). Two locals in their outrigger came alongside the ship and agreed to help Liam and Kenny light the fire and also send a message to the local string band on a nearby island to come play. By the time I arrived with all the grub that Stacey had prepared, a signal fire was lit on the beach and before we even had the meat on the grill we could hear the strumming of ukuleles and guitars arriving on our tiny beach, the size of a postage stamp! So it was steaks, sausages, salad and string band for dinner, a delicious combination and we had a great time dancing around the fire under the palm trees and starry sky! Laughter really seems to be the theme this trip, and there is rarely a dull moment onboard, we are enjoying each other’s company and the warmth that Vanuatu and its people have to offer!

james and the local volleyball stars.

james making paper airplanes for the kids.

james with his catch.

jim thanking the Asanvari dancers.

In the morning we had an agreement to pick up the crayfish on a nearby island, but there was a photo opportunity waiting to happen on our way…a sandbank island just big enough to pile 30 people on! We loaded the dinghies and made way onto the little atoll while the ship stood off gave the photographers a chance to capture us on the deserted island!

Geoff, Kate, Andy, Kay, Katherine, Robyn and myself took the dinghy across the channel to an island where the local men greeted us. Seeing as it was Sunday morning we were just in time for church, while the VCs were lead down the path to the church I followed Tom, the crayfish provider, to his hut so he could change into his Sunday best! His wife came out of the hut, with baby on hip and said that I should wear a dress to go to church and that I should follow her inside the hut to try on one of her dresses. She pulled a bag off the wall and inside was a collection of “motherhubbard”dresses, I didn’t know what to say, but I suppose I was here and couldn’t say no, I changed into the not so form fitting garb and Tom and I headed off to the church. Upon entering in the doors I was soon the center of attention and as I tried to concentrate on the Pastor and his message I felt the eyes of the young locals and the whispers as they saw me, the white girl, in a local woman’s dress! We listened attentively to the Bislama sermon and tried to follow what was being preached, we offered a few “bigfella claps” to the prime minister and even heard the latest airfares to Australia, it was a mixed message I am sure!

After the service we stood in line and shook hands with the congregation before heading back to the beach to collect our food stores and make the journey back to the ship. While we were away the others did some snorkeling, by the time we returned, lunch was being served at the same time as the anchor was coming up and by 1730 we had made our way to yet another anchorage for the evening.


locals sailing off in their outrigger.

myself and children in asanvari.

myself in my BIG MOMMA dress.

nick in the outrigger.
In Lamen Bay, Epi, the search for the dugong (sea cow) continued. Although the creature was not sighted there was the opportunity for some great snorkeling and beach combing. We were delighted to hear that the local island resort could cater for 33 of us; the voyage crew kindly treated the permanent crew to a meal ashore. Stacey and I were most thankful, not preparing a meal is a real treat and we, along with everyone else, enjoyed the meal, THANK YOU VCs! The local kava bar was open and between cups of kava we enjoyed the sound of the surf on the beach and the tunes from the boom box and dancing with the local children! There were hammocks strung on the beach for lounging and picnic tables for sitting and watching the sunset and enjoying the food and company! By the end of the evening Barry gave a fire twirling display with his fire stick and we then proceeded to attempt building a volcano on the beach. The local children helped us pile the black sand into the crater shape and then collected dried coconut palms for the fuel, we got the fire going, but much to our dismay it didn’t quite work as planned…next time!

Once again, we are underway and as I sit here and type the sudden shock of the alarms ringing brings me to my muster station on deck. For safety purposes we have frequent drills, today’s was a fire drill. As Nick and Paul donned the fire suits, James and Andy rigged the snorkel (hose for drawing sea water) while Liam and Kenny prepared the fire pump and hose. I closed the galley vents and shut off the fuel supply and Elaine did a muster check that everyone was accounted for; someone was missing….Stacey! Turns out the “fire” was in the galley and she was suppose to be unconscious and in need of rescuing. Without much delay the mock fire was extinguished and Stacey was in safe hands, a successful drill!


not so deserted island.

outrigger sailing.

outside the church window.

outside the handicraft shop in asanvari.

After a lovely sail south along the west coast of Efate we reached the calm anchorage of Mele, Hideaway Island. Although the rain was acomin’down it did not dampen our party spirits. SuperHero Fancy Dress along with a super fish dinner was a super way to end a super trip! We had every costume from Super Nambas, to Super Chicken, to Methane Man, to Super Canada, to Super Baggy Wrinkly, a lot of effort put into the costumes and the night was a real laugh! Thank you once again to all our voyage crew for making this an unforgetable trip, we hope to see you again!

Now the fun really begins…REFIT! We are anchored in Port Vila for a ten-day turn around maintenace period. Various jobs are planned, one big one being taking the t’gallant yard down for revarnishing and a check over! Crew will each be given three days off who I am sure we wont be seeing during that time, of course they will be gathering for my birthday supper….or at least I hope they will!


santo-vila trip photo.

So… we’ll see you again for the trip from Vanuatu to New Caledonia !

Cheers, Noreen

See Voyage Crew Trine's account of this trip - here
See Vanuatu Banks Islands V205 report - here

 

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