See Previous 2005 Voyage Logs

V216 Entering French Polynesia -
the Marqueses isles

Voyage to Marqueses - Marita Ferguson shares her journal with us

The passage from Pitcairn to the Marqueses was 10 days of sunny sailing, flat waters covering some 1070NM gave all the voyage crew plenty of time to familiarise themselves with the lines, setting, trimming, handing sail and furling. A sports day was arranged half way through the voyage with each watch competing against one another in a belaying pin race, water balloon fight, egg race, quoits, Tarzan swing and tug of war. The egg race probably posed as the most challenging event. Competitors were required to hold a spoon in their mouth, and walk the decks whilst balancing an egg and pass it to their fellow watch member. Each watch competed with enthusiasm as the grand prize was a case of beer for the winning watch. The 12-4 used a few dirty tactics to win the tug of war, Bosun Ulrich rubbed tallow in the hands of the 8 to 12, swabbed the decks with water and even went as far as to move the mark to their advantage! All good fun and at the end of the day cheats never prosper - the Captain's watch won the case!!!

Marqueses
Hiva Oa – Taahuku Bay
21st of May 2005
9º 48' 4 S 139º 01' 9 W

We cleared customs on Hiva Oa at the island’s capital Atuona. Mt Temetiu at 1276 meters and Mt Fenau at 1126 meters slopes dramatically from Atuona and towered over our anchorage in the tiny little bay of Taahuku. A French three masted Barquentine La Boudeuse was anchored in Taahuku Bay on arrival and the crew were excited at the prospect of a midnight raid. Unfortunately they were due to set sail that afternoon, and the opportunity for a bit of friendly tall ship fun missed! Perhaps we shall meet again.

PC continued with bright work whilst VC explored ashore. Long timer voyage crew JJ departed from Hiva Oa for home after travelling with the ship from Auckland and covering 6591NM. It was great sailing with you JJ and best of luck in Jamaica.

Fatu Hiva
Baie des Vierges
10º 28' 4 S 138º 41' 9 W
24th of May 2005

Fatu Hiva is the most southern island of the Marqueses, it consists of two craters forming arcs open to the west. We anchored in Baie des Vierges at the sleepy village of Hanavave. The phallic protuberances caused this bay to be called Baie des Verges (The bay of penises) outraged, missionaries added a redeeming (i) to rename it Baie des Vierges (Bay of Virgins). In the morning Chippy Nick and Voyage Crew set off on a 4 hour hike from the northern village of Hanavave to the southern village of Omoa. Fatu Hiva is renowned for being the lushest, wettest and the most pristine island of the Marqueases. Of the reports back from the walkers this was not disproved! In the afternoon we weighed anchor and sailed to the southern village to pick up the walkers and to take Kenny for a surf with one of the local teachers of the Omoa village at the best break on the island!

Nuku Hiva
Baie de Taiohae
8º 55' S 140º 06' W
27th of May

Nuku Hiva is the main island of the northern group and the largest island in the archipelago. Nuku Hiva was formed by two volcanoes stacked one on top of the other. Soren anchored at the base of Mt Muake (864m) at the islands main town Taiohae. Services were a little limited and after 10 days at sea it was a mad rush to the internet to try and contact family and friends but with only two in the village it was a long wait. Ulrich, Nate, Kenny, Eddie and myself took boogie boards and surfboards in hand to surf the break at the neighbouring bay. It was an exhilarating ride down the face of the 2.5 meter waves with several waves picking us and dumping us ashore!! We surfed until the sun went down!

Free stylist tattoo artist ’Aki’ left his mark on Eddie, Kenny, Nate, Nick and Ulrich. Aki is tattooed from head to toe in traditional Marquesan designs. This can be a little daunting when contemplating a tattoo! One can chose where the tattoo will be placed but there is no collection of designs to chose from and one must entrust in Aki’s artistic talents! The evening before we set sail, a custom dance and reggae music were staged at the local market place. VC Fred showed everyone up on the dance floor with his moves!

Nuku Hiva
Baie des Tai Oa
Vaipo waterfall
8º 5' S 140º 10' W
29th May

We sailed to the south western side of the island to trek through the Hakaui Valley to seek out one of the worlds highest waterfalls. The hike took us through dense tropical rainforest, past coconut plantations and required that we made three knee deep river crossings. The river cuts vertical walls of nearly 800 meters into the basalt and after heavy rain the Vaipo waterfall at close to 350 meters cascades into the basin. Everyone took the opportunity to swim in the basin, but the lurking eels and the pressure from the cascading water saw it a short lived dip for me! That evening, we topped of what had been a great days walk with a fancy dress party themed Tropican. VC Rodney sported the most delightful number of the evening with grass skirt, pink flowers, and black wig.

30th of May
Baie Auaho
8º 49' S 140º 04' W

Anchored at the northern side of the island in Baie Auaho home to a large coconut plantation and one of the only white sandy beaches in the Marquesas. Crew went ashore for a walk while Lucinda, Peter and Rod explored the hinter regions.
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See Marquesas Picture Gallery here

Marita's Voyage log for the Tuamotus follows here

We shall be visiting the Marquesas again during the Easter Island to Tahiti 2006 voyage - see Schedule here