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Soren Larsen Kingdom of Tonga To Fiji
August 22 to September 8, 2005

Valerie & David Powell write of their travels in the South Pacific from Tonga to Fiji....

It became clear almost immediately that this trip would be just what we had hoped for. My husband David and I have both sailed a lot and were looking for a South Pacific sailing trip somewhere between a bare boat responsibility and total coddling. Right from the dock at Nuka A’lofa we were treated as if we had some common sense and would ask for help when we needed it. Our orientation began immediately with a tour of the ship followed by introductions and lunch and a briefing from Barry (the captain). Our education began that first afternoon and continued throughout the entire voyage.

We were organized into three watches that provide the structure for our day. Four hours on and eight hours off unless all hands are needed or you are available and willing to help. My first watch was the 4 to 8. Eric (first mate) and Liam and Nate (deckhands) plus 5 voyage crew (that would be us) have responsibility for the ship while underway and the permanent crew take the watch while we are at anchor. Anchored off Pangaimotu Island the first afternoon, we divided into watches for some introductions to fundamentals; sail raising, line handling, and nomenclature.

The permanent crew and voyage crew all offered encouragement and support when it came time to go aloft for the first time. It was only later that we learned it is most unusual for everyone to climb up the rigging on the very first day. Standing on the foretop for the first time was one of the many “pinch me” moments I will never forget. The encouragement never became pressure and each of us expanded our personal comfort zone at our own pace. Next it was time to settle into our cabin, a challenge for most of us due to the small space. We shared drinks on deck followed by a wonderful dinner served through the galley window by Lucinda and Ali.

We sailed north exploring the islands of Tonga for our first week. Every day brought multiple whale sitings starting early in the morning. Most were humpbacks in small pods which were sometimes close to the ship and sometimes outlined on the horizon. One early morning, my speed check with the knot line was interrupted by a whale blowing right off the stern. The whales were spyhopping, finning, fluking, and breeching. Looking at an information card, we realized we were seeing more than the card described. Someone would call out “whales off the starboard bow” and we all move and look to starboard. Kenny (bosun) came to the bow one day and called out “whales to port”, watched us start to move, and laughed at what he called a good game of “whale tennis”. Our last whale sighting in Tonga was the most spectacular that any of us had ever seen. We were off in zodiacs exploring Swallow Cave off the island of Nua Papu in Vava’u. While moving from one cave to another somebody spotted whales. We headed towards the pod and were treated to a show involving two adults and one baby humpback (possibly newborn) rising all the way out of the water and crashing back down. They dived down deep displaying their tails and rose again out of the water. The show ended with them waving and slapping their fins on the water. It was breathtaking! Some speculated that the baby might have been newborn and we were watching the celebration of the birth, another pinch me moment.

The 4 to 8 watch enjoyed the drama of both sunrise and sunset (including a green flash) while on duty. We shared the usual duties of bow watch, the helm, safety rounds, dishes, sail trimming, and whatever else needed to be done. The 4 to 8 watch also swabbed the deck each morning, much to the amusement to the rest of the crew. One of the first things I heard when I came aboard was “you will get out of this trip what you put into it”. Swabbing the deck is a great example of something that can be fun or can be a chore. Five or six people with brushes and a hose can have fun at 7am if they want to. Singing quietly under the deck house roof on a rainy night watch can make a long watch magical.

Our exploration of Tonga included many visits to shore where we could visit villages, purchase local handicraft, check our email in exotic settings, or enjoy a drink in a waterfront bar. We landed on beaches for sunning, shelling, and snorkeling. We were treated to a traditional Tongan feast on Hinakaula Beach with music and dancing and our first kava (traditional drink made from crushed roots and looks like dishwater) ceremony. We put on our own beach party and barbecue with singing under the stars. The floor show was put on by an energetic local resident. All our activities both on the ship and the shore went forward no matter what the weather was. We had wind and calm, rain and sun, hot and cool, and big and small swells but it made very little difference to our plans. Dry and clean clothing became a special event.

And all the while we are learning new things. We are challenged by the complexity of the rigging. That patient teaching is constant. There are also special times for classes in meteorology and navigation with Barry, pilot charts with Astrid, and GPS with David. Then there are the little tips and tricks that creep in all the time. For example, while swabbing the deck I learned the trick for coiling a hose without kinks from Liam. I later learned to squeeze fresh lime juice on coral cuts from Christiane.

When it was time to leave Tonga we were faced with an estimated 4 day and night passage to Fiji. We rotated the watches and prepared for living at sea. My new watch was 8 to 12. This watch allows for pretty regular sleeping hours. Our plan to leave the harbour at Neiafu under sail was somewhat foiled by fluky and falling wind. We did have the unique experience of trying to tack a square rigger out the channel. Barry later told us that the ship had not been tacked at all in months and that day we did at least six tacks before giving up and starting the engine. None of the conflicting forecasts had included flat calm.

Before the day was done, the wind came back and we had a spectacular sail on the 8 to 12 watch. A clear sky allowed us to steer by the stars. Shooting stars were plentiful and there was lightning to the south. Moderate wind and gentle seas made for a glorious and comfortable night. As the passage progressed, the wind increased and so did the swells.

Our second day at sea was sunny and we were making good speed. We sailed 30 miles on our watch (almost 8 knots for 4 hours!). Footing became more treacherous during the day but that didn’t bother the 12 to 4 watch who caught a huge mahi mahi for our dinner. Our second night, we were going too fast and we had to reduce sail to slow down enough so that we would not enter the Lakemba passage into the eastern Fiji islands before daylight. Moving around deck was a challenge and so was sleeping in the cabin with very loud creaking noises from the wooden ship. The plan worked well and we sailed through the passage into the Koro Sea when we came back on watch. The islands provided some shelter for awhile but the seas built again as we got back into the open. Just as we were finishing dinner in the galley a big roll produced a dishpan tsunami that threatened to swamp the stove. Our quick cooks saved the day.

Barry explained our exploration and travel options every few days and we all felt part of the decision making process. There were choices about where we wanted to spend our time and it seemed we were mostly in agreement. Daily briefings kept us informed about where we were and what happens next.

We arrive at Levuka on the island of Ovalau early in the morning. We made the passage in 3 days and gained a whole extra day to explore Fiji. We all share in this accomplishment and thank the Wind God. We could see a town and the mountainous island but had to wait until custom formalities were completed. We had been warned that this might take many hours and were pleasantly surprised when it was all over before lunch. Everyone was eager to go ashore after 3 days at sea.

We quickly learn the Fijian greeting and response (Bula) as we walked through town. At the Dive Shop we could arrange anything from a cappucino and email to bike rentals and island tours. We did all of that for the next day. David and I went biking and enjoyed a slow tour of part of the island. We met villagers and talked with lots of kids. We toured a farm where a proud young boy showed us his European pig, etc. We took pictures of a family clearing a burial site and they asked us to send them prints. We all had different experiences that day and enjoyed sharing our stories.

Further Fiji exploration included a rainy night sail, excellent snorkeling and shell collecting. We became more comfortable at the traditional kava ceremony where we shared bowls of kava and dancing. We learned to keep our sarongs secure whether we were dancing the demure “missionary twostep” side by side with our host or whether we were dancing more freely. These friendly and hospitable islands have welcomed us at every stop. Near the end of our voyage we have a chance to return the favour. We anchor in a bay on Beqa island and invite the villagers to come aboard for the afternoon. We rig a swimming rope from the course yard arm, prepare bubble blowing solution, mix a batch of juice, fill a basket with cookies, and send in the zodiacs. Next thing you know the ship is covered with

Fijians and full of laughter. We in turn were invited to shore for a rugby game before dinner and a kava ceremony afer dinner.

Our final sailing day could not have been more perfect. We enjoyed fair winds and following seas in bright sunshine. A very happy crew dropped anchor in Momi Bay around 9:30pm.

Someone has just walked by me saying “You learn a lot about yourself out here”. I think that is a good thought to take home. While learning about sailing this ship and the South Pacific, we have made new friends and redefined our comfort zone. Obvious challenges include going aloft to work or taking the helm on a stormy night. A less obvious challenge is living in a very small space under difficult conditions. I know I have successfully moved outside my personal comfort zone on this voyage and that feels good. There have also been times when I declined a challenge and felt good about making that decision for myself. The support and encouragment from the permanent crew spread throughout the voyage crew and found ourselves helping each other to do as much as we could. The shared adventure and sense of teamwork that developed are priceless souvenirs from our voyage aboard the Soren Larsen.

Click here for Valerie & David Powell and Sue & John Sorensen's photo gallery for this voyage...