Voyage 249A Easter Island – Marquesas

Voyage Crew Eric Aston tells of his journey from Rapa Nui north in to the tropics.

After 3 days anchored at Hanga Roa which allowed some exploration of Easter Island and its iconic carved stone Moai, it was all aboard on the Friday morning to meet and welcome the 19 new voyage crew (VC) joining for the next leg. Three VC (Chris, Ross and I) were continuing on having sailed from Auckland and suddenly we are the ‘old hands’. As the new chums were introduced (for some it was re-introduction as one, Shona, was back for her 8th trip) and familiarised with the ship’s equipment, safety gear and basic procedures, Ross and I had one more Easter Island activity – we had been invited to climb to the T’gallant yard on the B.E. Esmeralda, the Chilean navy’s four masted barquentine rigged training ship. What a view we had looking back across to Soren Larsen.

By Saturday lunchtime all were keen to be off on our next adventure and with an increasing onshore breeze, were able to sail off the anchor at 2pm. Our three anchorage companions had by this time all departed – the Esmeralda was just a smudge on the horizon, whilst a catamaran with an American couple into their 5th year of sailing, and a Swiss/Brazilian couple in a mono hull yacht headed to New Zealand, were both out of sight and missed our departure.

It was not long before we were heading west with a strong breeze giving us some rough seas. Unfortunately a few succumbed to sea sickness and disappeared into their cabins. It was quite a rude introduction.

As soon as we got sailing the 3-watch system was implemented and we were quickly into the routine of 4 hours on, 8 hours off. On one midnight to 4am watch I had to report a major tear in our biggest square – the course – which required it to be brought to the deck for repair. Whilst under repair an upper topsail sail was hung from the course yard – in that way we were able to recover some of the power lost with the course. Unfortunately the rough weather caused a couple of minor casualties and our medic was required to stitch up an elbow and strap up a badly strained ankle. Both patients were up and about within 24 hours.

Our last 24 hours before Pitcairn was notable for exciting sailing and four very large waves, one of which dumped Emma and I into the main fife rail as we were tidying up ropes at 2 in the morning. Another came over the stern and flooded down into the chartroom. Big waves, lots of water, some wet people, but no damage!

By Saturday evening the lights of Pitcairn Island were clearly visible – it was good to be on bow watch and have something to see. The purser smiled and said just wait, the island will be plunged into darkness in a moment, and hey presto! At 10pm all the lights went out as the island’s generator was switched off. Mains power is only available between 7am to 1pm and 5pm to 10pm daily. We anchored off Pitcairn at 11.20pm in a rain shower and then retired below to dry out and get some sleep before our excursion ashore.

In the morning the Pitcairn Island boat experienced some problem and as a result it was 11am before we were disembarking to the tiny breakwater pier. We were promptly invited to stay with a family and taken from the pier to their house on a quad-bike. Quad bikes are the main (almost only) form of transport on the island. There is only a short stretch of concreted road – all other roads are unsealed on Pitcairn, you are either going uphill or downhill and most hills are steep! Hence quad bikes are a great advantage to the locals.

We had 2 nights on Pitcairn with several different families accommodating from1 to 6 of us. Our hosts were very generous of their time and food. Every islander we met was willing to stop for a chat and by the time we left we were all friends. It was interesting to visit a place so well known in English history but a place few have actually visited due to its remoteness.

After two days of reclaiming our land legs it was back on board and off to Mangareva in the Gambier group of French Polynesia. Initially we had strong winds but these died and our planned 2 day voyage required an extra day as we soaked up the sun. I was now on the 4-8 watch and got to see the sunsets and sunrises – an added bonus.

Mangareva, my first true tropical south sea island! Quite exciting to edge in slowly through the outer reef. Rikitea is the only township in the Gambier Group, but not too much to see or do. I did enjoy some different food (steak and chips!) for a couple of days, a couple of visits to little beaches with palm trees and lovely white sand, and I climbed the hill overlooking the town and harbour to get fantastic views, and the weather was great!

Perhaps the highlight of my visit to Mangareva was being on the T’gallant as we motored in and out. Only a square rigger can provide that fantastic opportunity!

After Rikitea we had 5 days of easy sailing with constant winds, sunny days and only the occasional rain shower. Instead of using the compass we navigated by reference to the sun, moon, planets and stars as the ancient Polynesians did. It sure made us look up to the heavens more and understand the constant rotation of the earth, 15% per hour. As expected, under the watchful eye of Captain Jim, we safely arrived at Fatu Hiva, the first of the islands visited in the Marquesas group.

Eric Aston

See Steve's pictures of this voyage here

and at the island destinations here

Soren Larsen will be visiting these destinations again next year.