EXPLORING VANUATU ABOARD SOREN LARSEN OCTOBER 2007
George Lemann from Bowral, Australia, shares his first Soren experience

Here are my first impressions after a visit of only ten days. Many may not be correct but they are real to me. The journey can be summed up as an enthralling interlude made memorable by handshakes and contrasts.

SHAKING HANDS was an expected and welcomed gesture in the villages when going ashore or after a ceremony. Never before have I shaken hands with the entire congregation after a service or with the dancing troupe following a performance by men resplendant in their nambas (penis wrappers) or topless women in grass skirts - it was difficult to look them all in the eye at the time. It was also polite to shake hands with as many as possible, both young and old, to say your name, and from which country you had come. This was greeted with a smile and the name of the new acquaintance. After this greeting was an opportunity to ask and answer questions and to talk about things in general as most spoke English, the children particularly.

THE CONTRASTS encountered were vivid, causing me to reflect on what is important to life and necessary for its fulfilment. Among the most notable were;
- Transport. From jet air travel to wind ship and dugout canoe.
- Possessions. From our affluent life cluttered with stuff to a simpler existence without electricity, vehicles, phones or TV. Having no refrigeration means eating locally- grown, fresh produce. Shining white teeth, sparkling eyes and healthy bodies were the norm.
- Religion. From the veneer of Christianity requiring modest dress to the village life entwined with magic and ancient tradition, expressed in the dancing of the nambas and topless women, all seemed glad to discard their inappropriate missionary garb.
- Education. School seems to start at four four years and children attending even the humblest village primary school learn at least three languages, English, French and Bislama. They also speak the local dialect and may even have their own family language. As well they learn maths, science and other subjects taught to our own kids. No wonder they are so bright and enchantingly forthcoming.

- Tall Ship Soren Larsen. Aboard the wind ship contrasts were many; from the stuffy confines below decks to the endless horizon, the sea breeze and the moonlight night sky on deck. From the swishing of the sea and wind in the rigging when under sail, to the purposeful throb of the engine and generators. From the time honoured system of hoisting and controlling the sails to convenience of gas cooking, GPS and Radar.

- The Islands. From the ship there was very little evidence of habitation. No clear-felled hillsides and hardly a house to be seen along the shore, just a screen of green. But behind this wall a busy village life was being lived. Houses, public buildings, vegetable plots, flower gardens and grazing for pigs and cattle under the palm trees from which the coconuts were harvested for copra. Occasionaly a thin column of smoke betrayed the presence of a drying kiln for copra but mostlty just a dense shoreline of green, green trees and shrubs was seen.

These impressions lead me to believe that Vanuatu should get a world gold award for sustainability and not be colonised by a new religion of economic missionaries intent on providing the people with debt, electricity, the need for oil and the introduction of consumerism and obesity.

Such are my first impressions, none of which I could have gained without SOREN Larsen. The determination of the Owners Steve and Rosie Randall to keep her sailing and adventuring; the experience and diplomatic skills of Captain Jim Cottier as he plied the seas and got permission from so many chiefs for us to land; and the extraordinary hard work of the First Mate George Lemann (my son) and his dedicated crew, all of whom stood their watches, ran and maintained the ship, cooked and served us delicious meals and were at all times considerate and helpful to the voyage crew with great good humour. Last but by no means least it is the adventurous spirit of the Voyage Crew who, by choosing to voyage aboard a square-rigger, makes it possible.

What an enjoyable and interesting group of people from many nations and occupations contributed to this memorable experience. I thank you all.

Martin Lemann,
Bowral, NSW, Australia.
4th November 2007

Vanuatu October 2007

Soren Larsen will be visiting these destinations again next year.