The
Tall Ship Soren Larsen 2003 Pacific
Voyage Log
Images
from Auckland to Tonga - here.
| Noreen
Hill - Ship's Cook, camera-ace, and voyage log scribe
writes her first installment of her account of life
aboard: |
|
Austrian
Voyage Crew Emil Gruber flew out to New Zealand
to join Soren Larsen for the entire 5 month 2003
Pacific season.
Read
his first impressions after the first trip to Tonga:
here
|
17th
June 2003- Arrived Tonga:
After an extensive six-week refit we
find ourselves leaving the ports of Auckland…finally!
We motored out and anchored just off the Whangaparaoa
Peninsula and sat down to our first meal together, the
permanent crew all anxious to turn in for the night! The
voyage
crew are really keen to help out and they wait with anticipation
for the first signs of sails being set, as do the permanent
crew. We spent the day at anchor on the 6th and as Captain
Jim did a marvelous job entertaining the V.C.s with safety
and navigational talks the crew worked as hard as usual
bending on the fore and aft sails as well as stowing the
ship for sea. Thea and I, knowing that the chances of
sea sickness are quite high for the two of us, prepared
food for the next two days; so there was a constant aroma
flowing out of the galley today from anzac biscuits to
bread to lamb curry. I got a fantastic comment, from Canadian
Paul, whose birthday we celebrated on the 7th, “Is
this one of those ships where you just eat the entire
time”, got a chuckle from me anyways, knowing we
really do!
34°
46’S 176°44’E Light winds this morning and
the engine started at 0600 hours. Strengthening as the
day goes on with a few more sails set!
We
had our first bread making session during the 2400 to
0400 watch and Dan Covich was so excited that his bread
turned out that he just had to wake me at 0345 to let
me know! Nice guy, eh? Because of the calm conditions
the ship is a beehive of activity; Marita busy down below,
Daniel continuing with little jobs left over from refit,
V.C.s helping bend on sails as the watch routines rotated.
The fishing lines were set this morning by Paul (N.Z.)
as Fraser reeled in the lines we were happy to find a
Bonito and two Big Eyed Tuna, I filleted them and tomorrow’s
lunch is sure to be a hit seeing as all of us took part
in the making! Jim began his navigational school today
and had 11 attentive students attend all eager to learn
about celestial navigation!
After fourteen hours of fifty knot winds
(it seemed like it) the ship has settled down to the prevailing
conditions. We had a few sea sickies and for those who
were not, we owe a big thanks for helping get the food
on the table! Thanks guys. During the strong winds, Jim
asked for the inner jib to be handed and due to some slight
problems, all hands were called on deck to sort them out.
There seemed to be water coming from every direction and
it was a true test to see how good the Musto gear really
was! Marita, Lucy, Jacob, Joel and Fraser did an awesome
job aloft bending on the upper topsail in the vile conditions,
the crew has seriously been putting in the hard yards
and they deserve a big round of applause!
Rumour has it that by Thursday morning, we should be nearing
Raoul Island, of the Kermadecs, very exciting news, meaning
we are half way to Tonga!
29°15’S
177° 54’W Lucy gives Thea and I the call at 0600,
Raoul Island in sight! The voyage crew were amazed to
see land, at last! Mikkel prepared a roster for crew ashore,
after much confusion the first lot were sent ashore with
the stores and mail delivery for the Raoul Island Team.
While half of the crew worked on board, the ‘important
people’ (as Bobby called them) hiked, bathed it hot
pools and enjoyed the lush vegetation of this magnificent
island. 
At
1300 the change over of crew brought Lucy, Jakob, Joel,
Mikkel, Fraser and I to join the V.C.s for an afternoon
ashore. After an amusing snoop 
through
the hostel lounge room, looking at pictures of Peter Vyvier,
everyone except Fraser and I headed off to the beach for
a bit of surf and sand! Meanwhile Fraser and I joined
the Raoul Island Golf Club! We had a fantastic round,
and although we couldn’t keep up to the island pros,
we had a blast trying! We provided ship tours to the Raoul
Team, so not only did we get a “break” from
the ship, but they got a “break” from the island!
We send out a very big Thanks to the hospitable bunch
on Raoul, we are hoping you are reading this via the island
Email,
THANK YOU for the fantastic day!
23°39’S
174°43’W After three fantastic days of sailing
after our departure from Raoul, we are averaging speeds
of around 8.2knots. We find ourselves taking more and
more layers off each day as the sun shines brighter and
the breezes blow warmer. The fishing has been plentiful,
the V.C.s are relaxed and enjoying the amazing sailing.
With the full moon upon us the 4-8 watch have an amazing
setting of the sun and rising of the moon, and the 8-12
find the deck a light from the glistening of the moon
on the rolling seas.
Today,
June 16th, we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn. A sweepstakes
was set up so that we may guess when we will first sight
Tonga, there were some interesting estimates, but the
majority seem hopeful for tomorrow morning. We had a Fire
Drill this afternoon, as Jim helmed the ship, Thea ran
around shutting hatches, while Marita accounted for everyone.
Dan, Lucy and Mark started the fire pump as Daniel, Fraser
and Mikkel prepared the hoses. Joel did his best at dressing
Jakob and I in the fire saving equipment. Hopefully we
will never need to use these skills, but at least we are
trained and confident to handle any situation!
Land has been sighted! At approximately
09:25, ‘Eua was spotted by Simon. We celebrated at
smoko with a briefing by Jim about the islands. The tropical
climate had finally found us and we spent the day lounging
around decks, soaking up the rays. Lucy and Fraser both
had tropical trims and Thea was in great demand for massage
and Chinese cupping! The veggie lockers were emptied and
we had an array of fruit and veg dryingall over deck.
As
Lucy kept forward lookout, Jim was enlightening all and
sundry with his sail and navigational talks as cries from
forward announced Pilot Whales! Emil was a bit let down
that he was not the first to spot them, but was just as
eager to photograph them along with everyone else! It
is amazing the atmosphere that develops aboard a ship,
when life’s little pleasures, such as magnificent
sunsets or rises and sea life occur. It is sad to think
that the trip is almost over, but we look forward to exploring
the Pacific Island culture in the next few months!
See
Noreen's Picture Page of this trip here
June 17th, We anchored off Nuku’alofa
at 0900 hours and were then asked to come along side to
clear customs and immigration. As we awaited the arrival
of the officials, voyage crew relaxed over tea and coffee
while the permanent crew gathered on the foredeck and
basically gazed into the Tongan port, we made it!
++
As
reports come in from the ship they'll be posted at a new
Voyage Log page - see Soren's 2003
voyages through Tonga, Fiji and Vanuatu.
Stay
tuned ..
 |
May 2003:
Picture
galleries of the Auckland refit here
and on these thumbnails will amuse past crews, and
illustrate what it costs to keep a wooden brigantine
in top condition.
|
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TRACK
THE SHIP - Daily Satellite postion and map here
|
See
Voyage
Crew Bill's view of his 2002
Auckland - Tonga voyage here
